Two days ago an as-yet-unnamed enemy shattered the peace and broke the heart of a great city, a great nation, and a lovely people. I've been to Spain three times. Once in the mid 80's, once a few years later, and then again just last year. The transformation there since the mid 80's has been impressive, as joining the EU helped it rise out of its second-to third-world conditions back into a vibrant capital of commerce, culture, and vitality. The following are observations and facts I learned on my most recent trip, where I spent two short weeks working and commuting in Madrid.
Although it has been "slowing down" a bit in the past few years, the nightlife in Madrid after Franco rivaled that of any other city in the world. To get home at 6:00 AM was to leave your friends behind dancing still...dinner began at 10 pm, the good bars opened at 2:00 am...and everywhere you went people were laughing and dancing and dancing and laughing.
Somehow, the morning commuters stilled looked fresh and relaxed after all that. Rush hour in Madrid is beyond bustling, but polite. It's one of those European cities where adults on the way to the office and children on the way to school acknowledge each other and show respect to each other (very much unlike New York). Couples on the commuter trains and subways are sweetly intimate; parents are clearly in love with their children and play with them, and touch their hair, and shower them with attention. I saw none of the agressiveness I see daily in NYC...even the speed walkers would stop to apologize if they bumped into someone. Morning in Madrid struck me as a fairytale solution to getting millions of people where they need to go.
I happened to be in Madrid when millions of people protested against the coming Iraq invasion across Spain. I marched in the protest in Madrid that day. It was an unforgettable experience. Grandparents and children, teenagers and parents, marching, chanting, and yes, dancing and laughing, between the shouting and chanting. After years of oppression under Franco, they were, I had the sense, really happy just to be able to participate in such a massive public expression of opinion. The freedom to take to the streets, and shout their dissent, and then carry on to dinner or home, with their arms around their family, was clearly a joy for the people of Madrid.
In most ways, that evening looked exactly like the photos in the papers today of hundreds of thousands of people gathered in Colon Square, where I had ended up that day. It was cold that night and we appreciated the heat of the crowds as we made our way through the streets, but there was a warmth to the event that I'll never forget. A sense of family and freedom and passion and a great love for life.
It was very cold in New York last night...as I look at the pictures in the paper this morning, I can't help but imagine it was cold in Madrid last night too...I imagine the people in the street clinging to each other for strength and warmth...my heart aches for them...
In the coming days, decisions will have to be made about how to respond to this attack. May God grant Aznar the strength and wisdom to do what's best and right for his people. As is unavoidable, the response will be politicized. That's human nature. Today, however, I grieve for the people of Spain...not as a Democrat or a Liberal, but as someone who fell in love with that city of politeness and passion and beauty and spirit. I pray God comforts them in all the ways he can.
Interesting difference in cultures I guess, America couldn't get millions out in the street for any reason. And would'nt want to, since I don't think we could do it peacefully.
The crowds impressed me, and made me realize I really don't know these peoples. Different, and maybe better in some ways.
Posted by: bob mcmanus | March 13, 2004 at 03:05 PM
Edward,
How dare you use this tragedy to promote your lefty partisan anti-war agenda…
[removing tongue from cheek]
Excellent post.
Posted by: Macallan | March 13, 2004 at 07:09 PM
May God grant Aznar the strength and wisdom to do what's best and right for his people.
Not looking good on that front so far.
Posted by: wbb | March 14, 2004 at 02:43 AM
Interesting difference in cultures I guess, America couldn't get millions out in the street for any reason.
The culture's part of it, but I really think that the sheer physical size of the US also has an impact on such things. If lots and lots Spanish people want to spontaneously gather in Madrid, they don't have to hop a plane, or drive three days to get there.
Posted by: Geoduck | March 14, 2004 at 01:32 PM